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Sakuntala Narasimhan

Northeast and the Thai connection

  

You have heard of monetary economics, development economics and agricultural economics, but feminist economics? Not many people know that this new area of study is fast acquiring worldwide status as a separate discipline for research. The International Association for Feminist Economics, a global network with members in 50 countries (including both men and women -- Nobel prize winning economist Amartya Sen, who is famous for his path-breaking work on “missing females” in the Asian region, is a member of IAFFE, as are several male academics and activists from the developed as well as the developing world, who are interested in gender equity) held its 16th annual conference in Bangkok from June 29 to July 1, 2007, and this was the first time that this annual conference was being organized in the South Asian region.

 

Covering 50 theme-based concurrent and plenary sessions, the conference discussed a variety of issues, particularly those that are specific to the Asian region, like migration of labour in search of better earnings in the west (as doctors, nurses, domestic workers, etc) trafficking in women, and the effect of trade liberalization on female labour participation. Several delegates from Indian universities and NGOs presented papers, on the correlation between mothers’ education levels and the nutrition status of daughters, the problem of Muslim girls from indigent families going to the Gulf region as brides for affluent but aged Arab or Omani grooms (who can offer the girls’ families handsome money as bride price, because of their petro-dollar wealth, reservations for women’s political participation, and the problem of bigamy in Orissa. All of which was very enlightening and educative (more information about iaffe and the Bangkok conference, at www.iaffe.org) but what I wish to focus on here is a side aspect of the three-day event.

 

At the end of the conference on Sunday July 1, the host country took participants to Ayutthaya an hour’s drive away from the Thai capital, and it was here that the Thai-northeast connection got highlighted. Our tour guide, Siddhijay (from Siddhijaya, a name with Indian roots, like the name of many Thai rulers, from Rama the Great and King Trailokyanath and their successors over the centuries) pointed out that Ayutthaya was the ancient capital of the Thai kingdom (14th century) which was raided and destroyed by conquerors from Burma (Myanmar as it is now called) who plundered the golden wealth of the Buddhist temples and carted them away.

 

The ruins of the royal palace and Buddhist temple still stand as tourist attractions – and they look strikingly like the relics at Shibsagar in Assam, with the same red brick facades and circular architecture. The ambience is strikingly similar. The more I heard descriptions about Ayutthaya, the more it became clear that geo-political borders are all manmade and that the socio-cultural boundaries between nations merge so beautifully that humans, of whatever nationality, become just “people” with differences outweighed by what they have in common.

 

The people of Assam are believed to be of Thai descent, according to some  -- the Ahom heritage is common to both northeastern India and Thailand. Thai Ahoms are also believed to have migrated to Java, Malaysia (Malaya as it was known earlier).

 

Excavations at the hundreds of medieval Buddhist shrines or Wat (Thai for temple) show many parallels between south Asian culture and northeastern heritage. Ayutthaya, which served as the ancient capital for four centuries, was itself named after the Indian Ayodhya, birthplace of Lord Rama. It was King Ram the First who moved the capital across the river, to Bangkok after the Burmese invasion. One of the appellations used for Buddhist monks is ‘Aranyavasi” which means those who dwell in the forest, in Sanskrit. The official Thai name for Bangkok, a long, 166-phrase word that has got into the Guinness Book of Records as the longest name of any city, includes the phrases ‘maha’, ‘rajdhani’ and ‘ratna’, which are all of Sanskrit origin.

 

In terms of scenery too, the Thai interior could be anywhere from the northeastern interior, with its lush greenery, emerald rice fields, bamboo artifacts, and colourful wayside shrines draped with strings of jasmine and marigold flowers (and to drive home the point further, Thailand was in the midst of monsoon rains during my visit in June-July, whereas we Indians think that the monsoon rains are a typical feature only of India). The traditional Thai greeting, consisting of hands folded together at chest level, with a reverential bow from the waist down, is also a very ’Indian’ gesture resembling the ‘namaste’.

 

So what makes a political-geographical border assign one side to northeastern India or Myanmar, or Cambodia, and the other to Thailand – except manmade demarcations? The typical Thai across the border looks remarkably like an Assamese or Manipuri, in physical characteristics (and sometimes even in name). And to drive home the point, the conference delegates were even treated to a musical-theatrical performance based on a story about Hanuman from the Ramayana, which is a part of Thai dance heritage just as much as the epic is part of Indian cultural heritage too.

 

I came away from Bangkok not only with my head full of gender issues discussed at the conference but also mulling over the continuity in cultural heritages across national borders – the Chinese have something physically and culturally in common with the Thais, the Thais share heritage with the Indian northeast, which again has a lot in common with Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal. Sadly, politics focuses on the differences, instead of this shared commonality.    July 2007
 

Sakuntala Narasimhan is a Bangalore-based columnist specializing in gender and development.                                                                                                                             sakunara@vsnl.net

 

 

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